Tom Zappala Haircutting

Principles & Practices

15/2/2021

 
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​Throughout my career, there has been considerable time spent analysing the entire process in an attempt to further refine every aspect of it. The goal here is to continue doing so until a time when this journey reaches its inevitable conclusion. For now, I wanted to put together a list of fundamental principles and practices. Each statement directly correlates to client contentment and consequently, continuing success. The list below, like everything else relating to my practice, will be revisited and amended over time.
Communication
  1. First time clients will typically arrive nervous or anxious. The environment, communication, and service all need to be considered and supportive of this reality.
  2. Operating in a manner which doesn't emotionally support the person who has a booking is a critical error.
  3. Never approach or touch an anxious client until they are sufficiently relaxed and confident in the process.
  4. Effective communication and rapport are the most important things to establish at the start of a booking.
  5. Never stand behind a seated client when having a consultation. It's not an effective way to have an equal and supportive conversation.
  6. The client relationship, despite being transactional, should  mirror the communication efforts present in any successful relationship.
  7. Never trust someone with scissors to do 'what they think is best'. See #2 below.
  8. Creativity can often fail without adequate communication.
  9. A client should leave a booking feeling listened to and supported, that the communication and experience itself was positive.
  10. Always ensure a client feels comfortable communicating effectively, before, during, and even after their visit.​
General
  1. The merit of a haircut lies in its ability to grow out well and be functionally flattering independent of products and styling.
  2. There is no such thing as a 'best' haircut for someone. Any notion of 'best' is entirely subjective.
  3. There are numerous shapes for different textures of hair, each which could be considered 'best' when cut well.​
  4. The act of cutting hair well hinges on an understanding and appreciation of the fluid and inevitable changing nature of it.
  5. Shape and layers are not the same things.
  6. Blunt lines don't grow out well or support volume, texture and movement. Fine hair should never be cut wet or blunt.
  7. If the person cutting hair isn't considering how their cut will evolve with time, it certainly won't support that inevitability.
  8. Cuts that require time intensive or damaging styling methods are typically not great cuts to begin with.​
  9. A well designed cut will provide undulating waves of contentment as the hair grows.
  10. Vidal Sassoon influenced precision cutting is the bane of anyone with multi-textured hair and those who don't blow wave.
  11. To best support clients who are low-fuss, style their hair in a manner which will match what they will do at home themselves.
  12. Clients care less about how their hair looks when leaving and are far more concerned with how it will perform for them each day.
  13. ​If a haircut isn't low-fuss supportive and outdoor climate considered, then it's likely to be disappointing.
  14. Social media photos of haircuts are a curated, controlled moment in time and not a realistic ideal to compare yourself to.
  15. ​When cutting someone else's hair, the focus should always their ongoing contentment, not personal creative needs or desires.
Curls
  1. The merit of a haircut lies in its ability to grow out well and be functionally flattering independent of products and styling.
  2. ​While dry cutting well is an essential skill, that work should always be validated a second time post basin to ensure its overall quality.
  3. CGM and DEVA are both inherently flawed cutting techniques, particularly for those who desire shape, volume, and movement.
  4. A haircut should never rely on or require root clamps in order to achieve volume.
  5. There are numerous things written about curly hair, both online and in print, which are inaccurate, incorrect, or unnecessary.
  6. Frizz is a natural and, at times, unavoidable genetic predisposition. Never allow anyone or anything to make you feel inadequate.
  7. There's absolutely nothing wrong with frizzy hair, especially if your hair is shaped in a flattering manner.
  8. There are no 'bad' ingredients. People will often parrot misinformation in order to sell you products they think are 'better'.
  9. Each persons aesthetic preferences, products and methods should be considered their own and never bulk applied to all.
  10. Well-honed, thoroughly vetted scissor skills are far more important and valued than products or method.
  11. ​If more time was spent styling your hair than cutting it, something is likely amiss and it will likely grow out poorly.
  12. Social media photos are a curated, controlled moment in time and not a realistic ideal to compare yourself to.
  13. An effective cut and moisture are all most people need to look and feel great. For some, added moisture can also be optional.
  14. ​When cutting someone else's hair, the focus should always be on ensuring their ongoing contentment in the months ahead.​​
Conclusion
Far too few obsess on the functional quality of the haircut and instead seem to primarily focus on the styling of it. Despite what it may seem, an exceptional haircut should not be the exception, it should absolutely be the norm. This holds true for any texture of hair at any length, in any country or culture. Because we are in an era of quick-fix instant gratification, some think after taking an expensive weekend course they can somehow claim to be a specialist. While education can indeed offer a starting point for some, becoming an exceptional cutter takes much longer than a 2-day intensive. The road to effective, consistent proficiency takes decades of full-time, multi-cultural work with correctly aligned motivations. Many won't get there as haircutting in this era remains focused on short-sighted creativity, cult-like movements and social media addictions. This is why so many are seen are walking around with shapeless cuts, curly haired or otherwise. Then again, perhaps the 'likes' generated online are all that really matters these days? Those who come here seem to vehemently disagree.
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